June, 1785.
Tuesday the 28th. The clerks of the Custom House are come to day
to mark our boxes with lead. At the end of the ropes of each box,
they put a little piece of lead with the stamp of the King’s Arms
and that of the City of Paris, that the contents may not be
inspected in the cities through which they pass. A dozen of these
leads are hardly worth 6s. and yet they make people pay 24s.
apiece for them. It is a kind of impost.
Wednesday the 29th. The water-diligence, by which the goods are
to be transported to Rouen, ought to have been opposite Passy and
ready to be loaded very early. On this account I arose at 4
o’clock, but it was not arrived. I sent to Paris to know why. The
errand-boy met it in the sandbank between Paris and Passy. They
were making every effort to free it, and calculated to be at Passy
in the evening. They said that the goods might still be carried to
the water’s edge, and in case they did not arrive they would send
some sails to cover them; in consequence of which we have carried
a large part of the goods to the water’s edge, but they are not
arrived; they have sent some folded sails to secure them from the
rain, and a man remained there all night as a sentinel.
Thursday the 30th. It arrived and everything was loaded the same
day to the number of 128 boxes.
July.
Tuesday the 12th. We were set out from Passy early yesterday but
the departure was then postponed until to day; at four o’clock in
the morning my grandfather’s litter came, but again we were unable
to start, on account of the quantity of accounts which my
grandfather had to settle; we positively resolved to start after
dinner, and we accomplished our design at ten minutes after 5 in
the evening; after having dined at Mr. de Chaumont’s, my
grandfather ascended his litter in the midst of a very great
concourse of the people of Passy; a mournful silence reigned
around him and was only interrupted by sobs. Mr. Le Veillard, my
cousin, his domestic and myself got into a coach with two horses.
We left our luggage behind because it was not yet laden in the
cart which was to take it to Havre in our train. It was to rejoin
us at St. Germain (where we have lodged) the same evening. We are
arrived at the Misses Alexandre’s at St. Germain. They have given
my grandfather a bed and we have been to lodge at the inn.
Wednesday the 13th. We have also breakfasted with them, and we
had to bid them a long farewell; I confess that leaving (perhaps
for ever) young ladies so good and beautiful has affected me much.
We have been to lodge at Marite. It is a very pretty city, and in
fact is surnamed the Pretty.
Thursday the 14th. We have been to lodge with the Cardinal de la
Rochefoucault, Archbishop of Rouen. He has a superb and immense
chateau upon a pretty eminence. He has a park of about two leagues
in circumference, enclosed with walls and filled with roebucks for
the chase. The place is called Galion. We have all been lodged
magnificently.
Friday the 15th. We are arrived at Rouen at the house of Mr.
Holker, Governor of this city.
Saturday the 16th. To day we have remained at Mr. Holker’s. I
have been to see the city. In general it is very badly built and
dirty. It is surprising for the number of churches. I met with
three merely in going to the cathedral, and yet it was not very
far from the lodging. To reach the top of the steeple of the
cathedral, I ascended 464 steps of about seven inches high, which
makes 270 feet in height; besides, the point of the steeple was
eighty feet higher. I saw a bell very remarkable for its size, 27
feet in circumference, 9 feet in diameter, ten inches thick and
nine feet high, weighing 45 thousand weight. The clapper weighs
2400, and is 5 feet in circumference. The whole church has been
built 800 years.
Sunday the 17th. Dined at Ivto, in the country of Cau. I observe
that all the women have lost their front hair, owing to a certain
bonnet which removes it and pulls it out. Slept at Bolbeck, a very
pretty city.
Monday the 18th. Dined at an isolated hamlet, at the sign of the
Boot. We could not obtain water fit to drink. The only drink was
some very bad cider. We arrived at Havre at about 5 o’clock, at
Mr. Buellard’s, behind the bason.
Thursday the 21st. Dined at Mr. Lisnouzin’s. Arrangements were
made with Mr. Jennings, the captain of the Southampton packet, to
carry us thither. They were to start at 9 o’clock in the evening;
but, the wind being contrary, it was put off until the next day.
Friday the 22nd. We started at 10 o’clock in the morning. We
made but little headway, the wind being contrary.
Sunday the 24th. We were in the road of Portsmouth; and saw in
passing, the tall masts of the Royal George, which was lost in
the We arrived at Southampton at 9 o’clock in the morning
and went to lodge at the Star Inn. All the passengers have been
sick except my grandfather. Mr. Le Veillard has accompanied us so
far, to see the vessel which is to carry us to America; but it has
not yet arrived. Mr. Houdon has come with us, to go to America to
execute the statue of G. Washington. He had joined as at Havre. My
uncle, the Governor, was at Southampton. We found him going to
Cowes, where he was to rejoin us.
Tuesday the 26th. The bishop of St. Asaph, a very great friend
of my grandfather, on the news of his arrival at Southampton, has
come to see him with his wife and one of his daughters.
Wednesday the 27th. Mr. Vaughan and Mr —— have also come from
London for the same purpose. We went on board the London Packet,
Capt. Truxtun, with the whole party which had come to see my
grandfather. It is a very large vessel, with three masts, well
supplied with poultlry, sheep and pork, and also a goat which is
to supply us with milk. They supped on board, and waited until the
next day to separate.
Thursday the 28th. The whole party left at 4 o’clock in the
morning, without our knowledge, and when I awoke I found the
vessel under sail; they had raised the anchor at 5 o’clock.
August.
Monday the 1st. Up to this time the wind has been contrary. We
are now keeping our course, the weather good and fine; we have
passed the Channel.
Tuesday the 2nd. This evening, the captain caught a land bird
which had rested upon the vessel, and which was so tired that it
allowed itself to be caught by the hand.
Thursday the 4th. We perceived a vessel upon the wind which was
holding the same course as ourselves. Having noticed that it had
made a change in its sails, which showed that it wished to join
us, we have taken in our sails and hoisted our American flag; she
has done it at the same time and has fired towards us; and on
nearing, we learnt that it was Capt. Keeler, going from London to
Philadelphia. He had bent his mizzen mast, and they were repairing
it. He proposed going to the noth of the Azores and we to the
south fearing the gulf stream, and he, the Algerines.
Friday the 19th. Yesterday we saw a turtle which might be
fifteen feet in length, of the colour of dead leaves. We have
caught a very handsome dolphin. I had never seen one; and it may
be imagined how its beautiful colours have struck me. In the
water, it was a very handsome King’s blue; but sometime after
having been drawn out of the water with the its blue colour
faded; it then became green; then becoming dead, it became
yellowish. It is to be observed that the nearer we approach the
belly, the more the colours fade, so that being of a handsome blue
upon the back, the belly is of a pale yellow and dead white.
Monday the 22nd. We collected a few grasses which came from the
Gulf of Florida, and which the current conveys. We found them
inhabited by crabs half an inch long.
Tuesday the 23rd. This morning the wind sprang up towards the
south, and has continued increasing until 12 o’clock; then it
whistled with unparalleled impetuosity. The only sail which was
left was a very small one of the bowsprit, which has been carried
away with a terrible crash, so loud that I have heard that the
masts of the vessel broke; we remain without a single sail, and
are going at the pleasure of the wind, which, fortunately, was not
unfavourable. The sea was frightfully agitated; the waves were in
such a way that the mainyard dipped three times in the water; and
the particles of water which the wind carried up into the air,
prevented our seeing to a greater distance than fifty feet. I was
with Mr. Houdon for the purpose of contemplating the beauty of
this spectacle; and now and then I went to bale out the water
which had come into the bunkers in great quantity, and to tie down
the sick who were turned upside down. Finally the wind began to
lull at 2 o’clock, and at 4 it had abated considerably; and,
according to the admission of the bulk of the sailors and the
Captain, they had never seen the like.
Wednesday the 24th. We are enjoying a very fine day which serves
us to dry some of our things which were damaged. For my part I was
very well satisfied with having enjoyed so fine a spectacle, and
with having escaped the danger without accident. I believe that I
shall remember all my life a moment which the danger rendered
interesting.
September.
Saturday the 10th. This morning we saw in broad daylight two
sails which came towards us. They were those of some whalers of
New York. They had been four months at sea. After having bid us
farewell, they asked if we could give them a bottle or two of
porter. We promised them a half dozen of them if they would come
for them. It was no sooner said than, in less than five minutes,
they launched their little boat into the sea, because it was
fastened to the side of the sloop. Seven men jumped in and plied
their oars vigorously, and rejoined us in a short time. We have
fulfilled our promise, and they have returned with the same speed.
The sea, which was not very rough, sometimes hid them from our
eyes. After having fastened their boat as quickly as they had
unfastened it, they have set sail to gain the offing. We have
sounded at 1 o’clock, and have found 29 fathoms of water and a
bottom of sand; sounded again at 6 o’clock, and have found 22 of
them. Toward night we have again perceived a sail. It was a
shallop going from Boston to Virginia. We have raised some lights
believing that it was a pilot-boat.
Sunday the 11th. We have perceived land, south of the Cape.
Tuesday the 13th. We are arrived at Philadelphia. The joy which
I felt at the acclamations of the people, at seeing a father and
mother and many brothers and sisters, may be felt and not
described.
Wednesday the 14th. Here I am, returned at last, in my native
country, where more important avocations will prevent my
continuing this journal.